Safe and effective care – what is hair oiling?

Hair oiling is simply the application of natural oil to the strands. This traditional hair care method originates from Asian and African countries. It is an excellent solution for anyone who values natural remedies. Oil is a safe, gentle and inexpensive ingredient that perfectly complements hair care routines, and the results may surprise even the most sceptical.

Most importantly, however, oiling can easily be done in the comfort of your own home; it is not complicated; you just need to follow a few simple rules. Where to start?

Hair oiling and hair structure

Oiling can be very effective, but only a properly chosen product will deliver the expected results. First of all, you need to determine the most important factor, namely hair porosity. What does this actually mean? Broadly speaking, hair porosity refers to the arrangement of the cuticles, which are located along the hair shaft and are responsible for the condition of the strands. We distinguish between three types:

• low-porosity structure – the cuticles lie close together, the hair is shiny and smooth, it does not frizz or become static. It is highly resistant to moisture, and is not easily manageable or styled

• medium-porosity structure – the cuticles lie slightly away from the hair shaft. They absorb moisture, so they may frizz and become static.

• high-porosity structure – the cuticles are significantly raised, the hair is brittle and dull. It absorbs moisture, and is easily damaged. Although it is believed that this type applies only to damaged hair, this is a myth. It often applies to curly locks, even those that are very well-maintained.

Oiling the hair – which oil to choose?

Not all oils are created equal – choosing the right product, tailored to your hair’s structure is crucial to the treatment’s success. It is primarily about the chemical composition of the product and the size of its molecules.

Low-porosity hair is characterised by closed cuticles, so an oil with large molecules will not be able to penetrate deeply and, instead of nourishing, it will unnecessarily weigh down the strands. In this case, an oil with small molecules, such as coconut or palm oil, will work best.

High-porosity hair will respond perfectly to oil with larger molecules, as the cuticles are widely spread apart from the shaft. Here, non-penetrating products can be used, e.g. sunflower oil, with safflower oil, hemp oil, with black cumin oil or linseed oil.

Medium-porosity hair is the most difficult type. The product should be chosen to suit the condition of the hair (, specifically the arrangement of the cuticles), which is difficult to determine – oils with both small, and larger molecules may work. The ‘trial and error’ method is most commonly used here. To start with, it is best to try the safest option – rapeseed oil. It is also worth paying attention to the production method – cold-pressed oils retain more unsaturated fatty acids and nourishing vitamins.

Hair oiling step by step

Hair oiling is really easy and requires no special skills or hairdressing, expertise. However, to make it truly effective, it is worth following a certain sequence. Let’s take a look at some of the most popular methods and how they work – step by step.

Dry hair oiling

It is worth starting dry oiling by dividing the hair into sections, then applying a small amount of product to your hands and gently massaging it into the strands - from the roots to the ends. The oil can also be applied to the scalp, which will nourish the scalp and hair roots (, particularly when combined with a gentle massage). The hair should be wrapped tightly in a plastic cap and/or a towel. For the treatment to be effective, the oil must be left on for at least 30 minutes.

Wet hair oiling

Wet hair oiling is carried out in a similar way, but the strands must first be dampened. The treatment should be carried out on clean hair – i.e., hair that is not weighed down by styling products. If necessary, you can wash it, remembering, not to use shampoo containing silicones, which create an invisible barrier and will hinder (or even prevent) the nutrients from penetrating deep into the hair. Apply the appropriate oil to the prepared strands and wrap your head in a plastic cap and a towel for up to several hours.

And what next?

In both cases, after the treatment, rinse the oil out with warm water, and then wash your hair with your favourite shampoo or... hair conditioner – we call this emulsification. The process involves combining the oil with the conditioner, which not only maximises regeneration but also helps to wash away hard-to-remove product.

How do you carry out emulsification? Apply a moisturising conditioner to hair covered in oil and leave it on for approx. 30 minutes. Then rinse the mixture out with water and wash your scalp with shampoo.

Right,, but what is the difference between dry oiling and wet oiling?

Wet and dry oiling look similar,, but they are not the same. Damp hair is able to absorb more oil, and therefore the nutrients, it contains. Regeneration is quick and works perfectly for very damaged hair.

Dry oiling takes less time and is slightly easier, it works great as a protective part of your hair care routine, which will also improve the appearance of your locks.

Or perhaps overnight hair oiling?

Overnight hair oiling is very convenient. Your hair undergoes a fantastic moisturising treatment, and in the morning it is nourished, shiny and soft. This treatment works well for dry and very damaged hair, although it is worth remembering, that hair should only be oiled when dry before bed.

It is also very important to use the right amount of product – too much will weigh the strands down and may lead to over-oiling – a condition where the hair is sticky and greasy – which is not only unsightly, but also difficult to remove.

Oiling the hair – effects

A properly selected hair oil prevents water loss, moisturises and smooths the hair structure. It deeply nourishes, regenerates and – as the latest research shows, – can penetrate the hair and rebuild the natural bonds of the cuticles. It also has film-forming properties and protects against external factors (, e.g. during heat styling), and helps combat split, and brittle ends.

Oiling the hair adds shine, bounce and elasticity. The strands are strong, healthy, shiny and soft to the touch.

And if you don’t see any results?

If oiling your hair isn’t working, there could be several reasons. Firstly, it is worth considering changing the product – an incorrectly chosen oil will certainly not yield positive results because it will not work in harmony with the hair’s structure. The same applies to the amount used – too much will weigh the hair down, whilst too little will not nourish dry strands. And, of course, there is the issue of time, which, unfortunately, cannot be clearly defined. It is an individual matter, that you have to determine for yourself – sometimes 45 minutes is enough, in other cases even 2 hours is not enough.

Too much, is unhealthy – so, how often should you oil your hair... and how to avoid making mistakes?

For hair in good condition (– most often low and medium porosity) – the oiling treatment can be carried out 2–3 times a month. However, if the strands are high-porosity or require intensive moisturising and strong regeneration, the treatment can be used more frequently.

Oil should not be applied to ‘unwashed’ hair. The sebum, that naturally accumulates on the strands loosens the hair follicles, and the oil will weigh them down further. This combination can result in excessive hair loss.

And that’s basically it, nothing difficult, is it? Oiling your hair is an extremely easy and quick treatment. A properly chosen product, the right method Toda and regularity will certainly bring spectacular results. Naturally, safely, effectively and for everyone.

"Hair care – modern conditioning and regenerating ingredients" - Marcin Siekierski, Provital Polska

"Hair care – possibilities and limitations" - K. Pytkowska

"Chemistry in cosmetics and cosmetology" - Z. Sarbak, B. Jachymska-Sarbak, A. Sarbak, MedPharm Polska

"The use of hemp oil in cosmetology" - J. Caputa, A. Nikiel-Loranc, Department of Biophysics, Faculty of Pharmacy with the Division of Laboratory Medicine in Sosnowiec, Medical University of Silesia in Katowice